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I have a question on cleaning the publice place stainless steel?

Do you noticed that the stainless steel fixtures in public places(such as  toilet paper dispenser in restrooms, elevator doors, etc.

the people who clean them spray them with something to make them shiny, but it makes them sort of greasy and then dust sticks to it? What do they use to do this??

Answer:

it is called shiela shine and the residue is a protective oily coating to prevent stains

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How to increase my home security?

Because these days I have seen some bad news on TV. So I  I want to increase the security features of my home preferably concerntrating on the door and windows.

Any one can give me some advises?

I would like to increase my homes security. Preferably with new doors (Steel door or wood door,I’ve been considering timber faced steel) and windows. I’ve currently got bog standard upvc but would like to know if anyone knows of any other products that have stronger glass in them (not that ugly security glass).

Answer:

Call a licensed locksmith. They deal in home security products, hardware and such. While they don’t install doors and windows, they work with them on a daily basis, and can easily spot the good doors from the junk ones.

Stay away from double doors, they are inherently weak in construction, and due to the law of physics enable burglars to get through them faster then single doors.

Quality locks especially deadbolts should be the # 1 place to start with home security, only because they are what keeps the door LOCKED. I’d rather have a medeocre door with high quality deadbolts, then the best door in the world with the “Home Depot special” locks.

Along with quality locks, the strikes need to be properly anchored to the frame. I lost count how many times I’ve seen good locks on decent doors, combined with strikes installed with 1/2 inch screws.

Stay away from all glass patio doors or windows low enough that someone could just “walk right in” if the glass is broken.

If you do have sliding patio doors, use a Charlie Bar. Or as a low cost alternative put a section of closet rod in the bottom track of the door.

For problematic areas where the openness of glass is desired, as well as security, clear Lexan sheeting can be affixed to the door(s) and or window(s). There are products such as window films that can be applied directly to glass to prevent it from shattering if it is broken.

(on a side note: Modern, double paned tempered glass is not very easy to break in the first place)

Clear away clutter from the perimeter of the house (large bushes, garbage cans, etc) and remove obvious “tools” that can help Mr. Burglar to get in (ladders, garden tools, bricks, etc).

I’m sorry to disagree with having the Police do a security survey, only because they generally handle “PERSONAL” security (people), and locksmiths handle “PHYSICAL” security (Inatimate objects). However, if they offer the service in your town, by all means, go for it!

As far as alarms go, they only alert you that someone is already IN your house, AFTER THE FACT!
But a decent alarm system can be worth a lot, if installed, maintained, and most importantly: USED properly.

GOOD LUCK and stay safe! –IC

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My door has raised grain in the plastic panels.

How do I refinish a front door that has raised grain in the plastic panels?

These grain look like a light oak finish on real wood but is plastic with leaded glass in the center. Do I lightly use steel wool on the peeling areas and then wipe an oak stain over the surface and then spray the entire door with a clear laquor?

Answer: 

Take some 600 wet sand paper and sand it down using water with the paper. Wipe the door down, removing all traces of the sanding operation. Clean is a must here. Get that 600 grit wet paper at Lowes.

Then buy a tube of P/L Polyurethane Construction adhesive and with a rag and wet apply a thin coat to the entire plastic surface. Make sure its thin everywhere, and no gobs or thickess to it just a seal of the surface. One will be more than enough. Wear plastic gloves and once the poly gets onto your hands it is impossible to remove it. Be sure to use water as the Polyurethane requires water to polymerize (cure). It will be very smooth and you will still be able to see the grain. Lowes also sells this for about $3.88 per tube, I just bought some.

Then take a can of oil stain and apply that to the door and wipe it down after about a 1/2 hour with a rag. You might want a couple coats of stain, if so, apply them and let them dry overnight before the 2nd and /or 3rd coat is desired.

Wipe the door down with a tac rag and remove all traces of the sanding operation. Clean is a must here. Then seal the door with a foam brush with polyurethane exterior varnish. You can also get that at Lowes for about $10 a quart. You can sand with that 600 grit wet paper and water between varnish coats. It will be very smooth if you do that. That is about it. The door will be restored to about its original condition and last much much longer this time around.

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Can I finish a metal door farme in order to prevent it from rusting?

Can I finish a metal door farme in order to prevent it from rusting?

we have stripped a metal door frame so that the metal of the frame is bare.

I want to get idea on what clear coat material can I use and it will not turn the metal yellow(as a shellac or laquer would).

So I thing I should use some not waterbased product. Because they will cause the steel to rust.

Answer:

First,please let me know, indoor or outdoor?

KBS Coatings makes a RustSeal in “clear.” It is a moisture-cured urethane that draws moisture out of the metal and atmosphere & dries to a rock hard nonporous finish to completely stop rust. The Clear is UV sensitive and may “yellow” in time but not to the extreme of shellac or lacquer would. “Clear” can be topcoated with any opaque paint system to avoid this… or perhaps just choose Grey RustSeal. Bottom Line: If stopping rust is the priority, you need RustSeal on the bare metal to block its pores and seal it from moisture & oxygen. The paint goes on in thin covering coats. An 8 oz. can will cover 12 sq.ft. with 2 coats.

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Steel or fiberglass Front exterior entry door?

I have found the style door I want, one with an oval glass with brass trim. Question is, fiberglass or steel? I want to stay away from wood, to pricey and maintenance intensive.

What material is most durable and easiest to maintain? This door will get direct morning sun.

Any help will be appreciated!!

Answer:

Fiberglas with PVC or composite jambs!! They`ll cost a little more now, but save in maintence down the road.

another option:

I thought all front doors were wood… Mine is anyway. actually solid wood. I would like a solid door that gives me a secure feeling that it can’t be kicked in… My door gets the morning sun but it is sheltered from rain.

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How to get a 34 inch door without over priced?

Where can I find a 34 inch door that doesn’t have to be special ordered?

We are replacing our front door and all we can seem to find is 32 and 36 inch doors. There are a few 34 inchers we have found but they are all plain jane doors..we are looking for something that is wood or steel with a decorative window. We have gotten quotes from different stores and they are all way over priced! Please help!

Answer:

well first of all if you are going to a home improvement store you are not going to have much selection. You should try a specialty store, even though they are a little more expensive, it is usually a better quality door. The other option if you are in a rush to get a door you will need to pick out a solid 36″ wood door and trim it down. For a steel door you will either need to order the exact size, or you will need to get a pre hung door set and remove your old door frame.

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Is there anything that can buff out scratches on a stainless steel frigde??

My 20-month-old got ahold of a child’s dart game with magnets on the end of the darts. He preceeded to go to the new stainless steel refridgerator and scratch up the door. Is there anything that can remove it or buff it out?????

Answer:

hmmm. stainless steel is notoriously hard to maintain - and it rusts and stains into the bargain. you could try using .0000 steel wool on it , or maybe you might try a light steel wire brush - though i’d use a VERY light touch. (but only if the stainless has a brushed finish)! if it has a polished finished, you’re actually better off - that can be buffed out with a power buffer and some rubbing compound. i would contact a body shop and ask them for tips - they probably know the most about working with metal finishes of anyone in town. that would be my first action if it were my fridge. i got my degree in sculpture - emphasis metal smithing, so i do know something about metal finishes - and what i know is that stainless is tough stuff to work with call a body shop - thats what i would do.
there is one other thing…i dont see how a magnet could do that kind of damage to stainless steel. you may have a clearcoat over the steel. if so, this stuff is probably urethane water resistant stuff, and so would scratch quite easily. this can be fixed with can of satin finish spray-on urethane clearcoat. use a light touch. first i would spray a little into the cap of the spraycan, and brush a little on over one of the scratches - jsut a little one! it will dry fast - if the scratch magically disappears, then your problem is solved…if not, you def want to call the body shop:)
beyond that, your only hope may be to order a replacement door for the fridge. good luck!

ps. ignore mr. armchair parent got a rugrat of my own - and he is a mighty machine of destruction!

psst. for the record, i’ve seen the stuff rusting in lots of salvage yards and old buildings. given…it takes a hell of a long time and a lot of neglect.

yeah - i forgot about the toothpaste and baking soda thing - might work! but if you have a clearcoat it will dull the finish. try to determine first if there is a clear coat!

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Where can I get an entry door side lite?

i am looking for a side lite panel only; i don’t need the door.it needs to be steel. it can be used. it will get painted.it is standard size,13×80,but i need an opening to accomodate a 12×48 glass window.I need to be able to pick up in or around indianapolis area.

Yeah here I give you some additional info:

ok, i guess i didn’t make myselg clear. i already have a new door and the framed glass for the sideof the door. what i need now is just the panel itself, with a window hole in it already, or able to cut a 4ft window hole in it without screwing up the pattern on the panel. see, i can use someones old pc and redo it. i guess fiberglass or steele would work.

Answer:

The task sounds somewhat ambitious. I`m also wondering about the numbers. If you`re looking for panel only, one would have to assume you have an exsisting side lite. Why not modify exsisting panel? If what you say is true(13X80 panel) you will quit probably have some installation issues. Unless you have more than 13 inches inside the jambs, the “window” will lap into the rabbits. There won`t be any room for finish trim. How thick is this “window”? Keep in mind the panel is probably an inch and three quarters thick. Also the glass height sounds little tall. If the panel has an embosed panel at the bottom, “window” may intrude on it. You may have to get what is called a flush panel. If I haven`t detered you from your task, check with local door distributors. They will most likely have what you seek. Yellow Pages.

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How to make my french door less drafty?

I have a french door,now I want to make it less drafty! 

New weather stripping and a door sweep are already on my to-do list. I’ve noticed, though, that the steel part of the door itself is really cold, which leads me to think it’s not insulated at all. The glass also let in a lot of cold air, obviously. My kitchen freezes because of this door.Short of replacing it (we’re moving soon anyway) what can I do to warm things up?

Answer:

Of course the weather stripping and door sweep are first. Caulk around all of the outside door casing edges, to cut down on unnecessary air flow. The weather stripping only takes a few minutes.

In our house I bought sponge pads that go under the outside wall outlet covers to keep cold from radiating into the house. They work quite well.

The window treatment we put on car windows in the south to keep the heat out, can be used on windows to reflect out the heat and cold also. Just a thought. That might help with the cold coming in through the glass.

On the steel door I would check and see if there is a heavy duty thermal type exterior paint that would add some insulating factors to the door.

Temporarily you might consider a tension rod (top and bottom) and a thermal drape across to help the cold situation. This would be non invasive, since you are going to sell.

Good Luck. I hope something here helps.

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How to fix the scratched stainless steel surface?

I own a hotel,and there are several stainless steel elevator doors there. 

During recent remodeling, the doors were scratched up by furniture and equipment.
then the head oh engineering tried to fix the scratches with sandpaper and a buffing drill bit.

Next we would meet the inspection, so as the head of the hotel, I must try to make the doors looks nice.
please,can anyone help me?

Answer:

There is one quick fix that might help. It’s a temporary solution.
Rub the scratches lightly with Bon-Ami cleanser on a damp sponge or cloth, (not wet, just damp), Then rinse and wipe dry, and follow by wiping lemon oil furniture polish over the scratched area. If it’s just fine scratches this will improve the appearance, but if scratches are deep enough to feel with your finger nail, nothing will fix them.

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