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How to install a new garage door?

January 22, 2008 – 8:22 pm

I just buy a garage door, how to diy to install the garage door by myself?

Answer:

I have attach one good article for your reference.How this can help you.

Sources:http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/rm_door_window_installing/article/0,1797,HGTV_3684_1395171,00.html

Hosts Pat Simpson and Jodi Marks show how to install a new, safer garage door that has been designed for do-it-yourselfers. For safety reasons, they recommend hiring professionals to remove the old door.

Take Measurements

  1. We began by taking the measurements of the door opening. We started by measuring the door opening width and height.
  2. Next, we measured for the side room for the installation of the vertical track and the spring.
  3. We then measured for the headroom, which is the distance between the top of the door opening and the ceiling. You should have about 10 to 12 inches of headroom available depending on the spring system you’re installing.
  4. Finally, we measured for the backroom. You need at least the door height plus 18 inches for proper installation.

Prepare Door Sections

  1. Our first step in preparing the door sections was to temporarily attach the stops to both sides of our opening.
  2. Laying the first section over covered sawhorses, we attached the hardware using the supplied sheet metal screws.
  3. Next, we attached the #1 hinge to the pre-punched holes along the top edge of the section.
  4. We attached a lift handle on both sides of the door section using the supplied fasteners.
  5. Next, we carefully lifted and set the bottom section in the opening so that it was centered from side to side against the stop molding.
  6. We used a 4′ level to be sure that our door section was level.
  7. To temporarily hold the section in place, we drove a16d nail into the frame and bent it over the section.

PHOTO

Figure A (Click to enlarge)

Install Door Sections

  1. We placed the second panel on top of the first and drove nails into the side jambs to hold it in place; then we installed the third section. Be sure to check the numbers on the hinges and install them in the proper order.
  2. When we got to the last panel, we placed it over the sawhorses and attached the top roller bracket.
  3. We then placed the last door panel on top of the others, drove in a nail for temporary support, and attached the hinges from the top of the previous section to the bottom of the last section (figure A).
  4. Finally, we placed a roller in the top and bottom brackets and in the outer tubes in each of the hinges at the ends of each section.

PHOTO

Figure B (Click to enlarge)
PHOTO

Figure C (Click to enlarge)
PHOTO

Figure E (Click to enlarge)

Install Torsion Springs

  1. We began assembling the torsion tube by pushing the tube sections firmly together in the coupler, drilling pilot holes and securing them with screws.
  2. We prepared the torsion spring assembly by sliding the torsion spring, winding unit and cable drums onto the shaft.
  3. We carefully placed the spring assembly and tube in each bracket above the door (figure E) and then tightened the screws in the cone to the torsion tube before securing the spring to the bracket.
  4. We attached the cables starting with the left side. We pulled the cable up from the bottom bracket and tightened the setscrew on the drum.
  5. Next, we inserted our drill into the winding unit and wound the appropriate number of turns to set the tension for the spring.
  6. Finally, we installed the tube retainers on either side of the door.

Final Touches

  1. We secured the stop molding around the perimeter of both garage openings using 3d galvanized finishing nails. The stop molding will help seal the garage from the elements.
  2. To attach the interior slide bolt, we secured it with screws on the end style of the door and then tested its operation. We repeated the same procedure for the slide bolt lock on the other garage door.
  3. To finish this project we applied a coat of primer to the raw wood trim around our opening. After it had completely dried we applied a finish coat of paint.

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I am looking for a door for my wood stove!

January 19, 2008 – 7:53 am

I am looking for a door for my wood stove!

Does anyone know where to buy a weld in door for the wood burning stove?I have checked,that many doors are cast iron with a metal frame,which is what i’m looking for.

Answer:

I think I can give you several options:

You may be able to find one at a metal scrap yard. This would be hit and miss.

You might google a brand you like, and contact the company to see if you can but a “replacement door” for your (imaginary) unit. (A little sneaky, but you may get what you want.)

Or you can try Northern Tool.

Check the link and see if this will work for you.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/s…

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Please tell me the best material of the sliding patio door!

January 17, 2008 – 6:44 am

Does any know the blinds in-between the window!Because now every sliding patio door has got this.

I have to take one sliding patio door if it comes pre-hung or is it best to hire a pro?

 Answer:

It is hard to install any door and the pation door would be the hardest one.

The inside blinds are like anything else, there is no best answer, just preferences. If you want the window treatment out of the way and kids are not going to wreck the mechanism, the internal blinds are useful.

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I want to cut my patio door,what special tool should I need?

January 15, 2008 – 7:29 am

What power tools do I need to cut the steel other than a hacksaw?

I have a steel patio door going to my deck. It is a 64″ X 20″ full light opening. A friend of mine gave me a 64″ X 22″ insert containing blinds built into the window.

Answer:

A sawzall, or reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade, or else a 4 1/2″ grinder with a metal cutting blade. Mark both sides before cutting. Cut one side at a time, not the whole door at once.

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Give me suggestion on dissassemble a steel door frame?

January 11, 2008 – 1:11 am

It seems dont get the visible screws on the steel door frame, but there are clips at the top right and left of the door frame.

Answer:

To dissassemble this steel door frame.

Near the floor, using a narrow blade
screwdriver, pry the casing loose either on the opening side or the wall side. As the casing is loosened, work upward with the screwdriver. With about 18″ loose, you can stop using the screwdriver and start rocking the casing back and forth while pulling out.

With the casing removed, remove the door by removing the hinge pins.

You’ll find screws randomly spaced through the flanges under all the casing, remove these and the frame should be able to be lifted slightly so that the floor covering is no longer capturing the door frame on the bottom.

If the door height is 6′8″, when you reverse the swing, the hinge location will also be reversed and will be located where the the latch formerly was.

If the door is a 7′ and has not been undercut, the frame can be flipped, keeping the hinges on the same side as they are presently.

ALSO >> Some have hidden screws beneath the door stop. Some have a nail flange hidden behind the casing trim.

Lastly, It might more practical to tear it out and replace it with a new prehung door in a new jamb.

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How to install Garage Door Radiant Heat Sheild?

January 11, 2008 – 12:26 am

My garage door faces south, and it get very hot every day. So this make it nearly impossible unable to park any car inside it.

I am thinking to install Radiant Heat Barrier / Sheild, in order to prevent heat transfer from the garage door itself.

Any one can give me some suggestion?

Answer:

Here do it yourself seems a hard work. So I suggestion you call the person who install your door or any reputable person. They make kits for this.

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